Delights from the Garden of Eden

Iraqi Omelet with Potatoes and Herbs

(Makhlamat Puteta)

(Makes 4-5 servings)

‘Ujja ‘omelet dishes' were quite popular in medieval times, and in terms of recipes we are fortunate to have a considerable number, which fall into two categories: ‘ujaj mudawwarat (shaped into discs) and makhloutat/mubahtharat (scrambled). In some of the recipes, the eggs were left undisturbed, sunny-side up, as in narjisiyya (lit. like narcissus flowers). The yolk was sometimes poked with a knife, and lightly mixed with the white to give it a marbled look. 

Today we still cook the dish pretty much the same way, but we call it makhlama. It makes a very convenient side dish or a sandwich for brunch, light suppers, and picnic lunches. The following recipe is vegetarian, but makhlama is more often made with ground meat (recipe in Delights from the Garden of Eden, p. 191)

Iraqi Omelet

(Makes 6 servings)

2 cups (12 oz/ 350 g) potatoes cut into small cubes

2 tablespoons oil

1 medium onion, chopped

½ teaspoon curry powder

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon black pepper

1 medium tomato, chopped

½ cup (1 oz/ 30 g) chopped parsley

¼ cup (½ oz/ 15 g) fresh dill, chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried dill weed

½ cup (1 oz/ 30 g) fresh mint leaves, chopped

 6 eggs

Chili powder to taste

1. Spread potato cubes on a baking dish, spray with oil, and broil or bake in a hot oven, turning once to allow both sides to brown, about 15 minutes (or brown in oil in a skillet).

 2. In a big non-stick skillet, heat oil and sauté onion until transparent, about 7 minutes. Add potatoes, curry powder, salt, pepper, tomatoes, parsley, dill, and mint. Mix well and let cook for a few minutes.

 3. Level surface with the back of a spoon, and make six dents in which you break the eggs. You may leave eggs whole, sunny-side-up, or zigzag surface with a knife to break yolks and let them mingle slightly with the whites. Lightly sprinkle the surface with chili powder.

 4. Lower heat and let eggs cook slowly, covered, until they are just set, about 5 minutes. Do not overcook; otherwise eggs will develop a leathery texture.

Alternatively, you can bake the dish. Simply transfer potato mixture to a greased baking pan, big enough to spread the mix in about ½ in./1 cm layer. Then add eggs as described above, and bake in a preheated oven at 400°F/ 200°C/ gas mark 6 until set for about 10 minutes. No need to cover.

 5. Cut into wedges and serve as a sandwich, with chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon, along with other sliced salad vegetables of your choice.

Tomato Soup with Rice

(Shorbat Tamata bit-Timman)(Makes 4 to 6 servings)

Before the arrival of tomato to the region around the 19th-century, this soup was made white. Try this modern version, smooth and comforting. Make it a vegetarian soup, just leave out the meat, and it will still be delicious and comforting.

1 pound (450 g) lamb chunks on the bone or chicken

1 medium onion, chopped

2 tablespoons oil

¾ cup (6 oz/ 180 g) rice, washed, soaked for 30 minutes and broken by rubbing between the fingers, no need to drain

3 heaping tablespoons tomato paste (one 6-oz/180-g can) or one 15-oz/425-g can tomato sauce

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon black pepper

1. Trim meat or chicken, put it in a medium pot, and cover with cold water by about 5 in./13 cm. Bring to a quick boil, skimming as needed. Lower heat to medium and let boil gently until meat is cooked, about 45 minutes, less for chicken. Fit a sieve on a bowl and pour meat broth to strain it. Set aside.

2. In a medium heavy pot, sauté onion in oil until golden brown. Stir in rice, tomato paste, salt, pepper, cooked meat, and 5 cups (1.25 liter) broth. Add plain hot water to make 5 cups if broth is not enough. Mix well, and bring to a quick boil, skimming if needed. Reduce heat to low, and simmer gently, covered, until nicely thickened, about 30 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent soup from sticking to the bottom of the pot.

Serve garnished with chopped parsley.