| Medieval Cannoli
In al-Warraq's tenth-century cookbook there is a recipe for small
stuffed tubular pastries, called halaqeem (like gullets, i.e.
tubes). Unleavened dough is made of flour and oil, and is wound
around a cleaned long reed, which is then sliced into about one-inch
pieces. Red, yellow, green, and blue food colors are used to
color the pieces that are to be then baked in the tannour. When
done, the reeds are removed and the resulting tubes are stuffed
with a mixture of walnut and sugar. The tips are sealed by dipping
then in melted sugar, and then are sprinkled with colored sugar.
Al-Warraq says they will look like a bustan (colorful orchard,
276). The reason why they are made small is because they are
used for decorations.
In the thirteenth-century Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook, there
is a similar recipe, called qanawat or qananeet (tubes). Dough
yellowed with saffron is made into thin flat breads that are wound
around reeds and are cut small or big, as desired. They are then
fried. After removing the reeds the tubes are stuffed with a mixture
of nuts and sugar bound with honey (132). In both recipes we clearly see the origin of what later was called
cannoli, the famous Italian pastry.
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