During
the medieval times, similar cookies were called raghuneen (?)
and a trendy Middle Persian name, khushkananaj (dry bread). The
Persian name gradually gave way to kleicha, a name which is intriguingly
similar to the East European pastries, kolech, the filled yeast
buns, also characterized by their round shapes.
In
the tenth-century Baghdadi cookbook, in measuring flour for making
cookies al-Warraq used a dry measure called keilacha, a variant
on keil, which was approximately 4 pounds (36). The keil or keilacha
were also the names of the articles themselves used to measure.
As to how this is connected to the naming of the cookies, here
is my argument: The kleicha cookies were not made year round
as we do today in our well-equipped modern kitchens. Up until
the sixties or so, they were made twice a year to celebrate the
two religious holidays, at the end of Ramadhan and the performance
of the hajj. People used to make them in great quantities and
bake them at the neighborhood bakeries, and in measuring ingredients
naturally they did not use cups and spoons, but the more practical
kilo. In the medieval times the keilacha or the larger makkouk
(=3 keilachat) were the measures used. It is my contention !
that the naming of the cookies stems from such old practices.
In other words, the means of measurement, itself gradually gave
its name to the cookies. Apparently the name lingered, even though
the keilacha itself is history now, and is replaced by the kilo.
This
is a common practice in the field of baking. By analogy, the
famous European pound cake got its name from the fact that the
first bakers in the previous centuries used sugar, butter, and
flour, a pound each, for making the cake. |